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The coast of Almería is situated in the south
of Spain, in eastern Andalusia, where the Mediterranean coastline
changes from the south to the east (levante). Of the many
characteristics of this area, its contrasts, film sets and
sceneries, its wildlife and history, none surprises the visitor
as much as its light. A pure, intense light which gives Almería
, along with St Joh of Acre, Athens and Syracuse, the highest
number of daylight hours in the world (3100 hours of sunshine
per year).
 Along
its coastline we can find villages ideal for relaxing and
hidden-away places where nature reigns. The quality of light
and the unique landscape have enchanted film directors: from
the dunes of Cabo de Gata–Níjar Natural Park,
where Lawrence of Arabia was filmed, to the Tabernas desert,
site of so many spaghetti westerns.
The western extreme of the Almería province, known
as Campo de Dalías, occupies a wide strip of land rich
in products grown in greenhouses and under plastic sheeting;
the cultivation of these products has made for a genuine economic
miracle in the area. To the west of the city of Almería,
and facing the African continent, the western coastline descends
from the Sierra de Gador to melt into the Mediterranean along
beaches rivalling each other in beauty. Setting out from the
capital, and before arriving at Aguadulce, the coastline becomes
more uneven and rugged, with high cliffs from where you can
take in a splendid view of the Bay of Almería. Travelling
along the coast road, Almería gradually disappears
behind us, and we pass among numerous hotels hidden away in
small coves and tunnels dug in the rock. Aguadulce suddenly
appears before us, with its attractive port to the forefront.
We recommend stopping off here and taking a walk among the
pleasure yachts, of all kinds and nationalities, and to make
your way to the jetty to be able to enjoy an incomparable
panoramic view of Aguadulce.
A neat holiday complex forms the background to a clean, intensely
blue sea, lapping a shoreline, which disappears far into the
horizon. Numerous hotels and restaurants tempt us to stay
here for a few relaxing days while enjoying the sea and sun
of this beautiful spot. In Aguadulce the horizon opens out
onto a flatter area where numerous tourist complexes are to
be found in full expansion. The landscape here becomes very
special. The work of man has transformed a former desert into
a genuine emporium of horticultural products, which are sold
in European markets. A sea of plastic sheeting dazzles our
sight before running right up to the Mediterranean shore.
Roquetas de Mar is the next stop on our route along the western
Almerian coastline. Many civilizations since Prehistoric times
have been attracted by this land and have settled here. From
its Muslim past, Roquetas proudly offers the Torre del Castillo
de Santa Ana, a sheltered marina, which extends on from the
fishing port, offers many possibilities for maritime sport
lovers. Close by the marina, an extensive complex has been
built, with attractive buildings, which blend with the environment,
where the overriding impression one gets is of the white walls
splashed with bright colours. An attractive, full-size golf
course serves as the ideal complement to a long beach with
its promenade, leading to a fully equipped tourist complex.
To the left of the westbound road, we find the Reserva Natural
de Punta Entinas, which in summer is home to a wide variety
of migratory birds. Now the road rises a few metres in order
to give us a splendid view of Almerimar, with its golf course
in the foreground and the marina behind. Yet again, an endless
array of hotels and restaurants offer us the possibility to
relax, taking up water sports, tennis, golf and many other
activities.
Beautiful beaches such as Guardias Viejas, Balerma and Balanegra,
lead to Adra, a town of Phoenician origin, which enjoyed a
golden age with the Romans.
Back in the capital, to the east of the city of Almería
we can find the Cabo de Gata–Níjar Natural Park,
a cocktail of beaches, cliffs, sea and light combined in perfect
harmony. The lack of crowds and the wildness of the landscape
are things that do not pass unnoticed. As a taster of things
to come the Reserve area of “Las Amoladeras” houses
the Visitor Centre. Passing along a beautiful road between
the Salinas Natural Site on one side and the Mediterranean
on the other, we reach the site’s bird observation post.
This place is of great ecological importance, with a flamingo
population, which reaches up to 2400 examples.
The contrasts begin when a narrow road snakes in often tight
bends, and the superb flat beaches of San Miguel and La Almadraba
move on to often steeply-dropping beaches, and the peace and
quiet of the flamingos, golden dunes and whitewashed architecture
of San Miguel de Cabo de Gata are replaced by the high cliffs
worn away by the violence of the sea. The lighthouse of Cabo
de Gata, appears before us 150 meters below. In the midst
of the seaspray, the Mermaids´ Reef stands dark and
ghostly. The south gives way to the east, and the coastline
begins to climb north.
San José is the most important town within the park
area, after Carboneras. It is a fair-sized whitewashed town
with an enormous beach, two coves and a well-implanted tourist
infrastructure. Its marina, sheltered by the cliffs, gives
lovers of the sea the chance to practice many different water
sports. A few kilometres to the north, La Isleta del Moro
is a welcome sight, with its palm grove in the foreground
and beyond, the whitewashed village spreads out over various
crags, one being an islet, all set against the intense blue
Mediterranean sky.
Carboneras, with its 16th century castle of St Andres, is
a typical Mediterranean town, clean and tidy, and which is
experiencing a growth of tourism. The architecture of the
new developments by the sea recalls once more the area’s
Arab past, with dazzling-white cube-shaped buildings finished
off with half-spheres.
From this point onwards, and moving out of the Níjar
area, the road rises among the cliffs, to then drop down to
Mojácar, situated in the foothills of Sierra Cabrera.
It is actually quite difficult to find two streets at the
same level in this beautiful, ancient town, with its clear
Arab past. Mojácar should be visited without hurrying,
to fill our senses with its strong personality, a personality
which has caused such a deep impression on many foreign visitors
– mainly British - that many of them have stayed to
spend here the rest of their lives.
Under Arab domination Almería was the most important
port of the Omeyan Caliphate under the rule of Abderrahman
III. With the expulsion of the “moriscos”, Moorish
converts to Christianity, in the 16th century, and after a
number of earthquakes, the city fell into decline until the
middle of the 19th century when the mining industry reached
its peak. From the sea, the city appears as a white line topped
off by the Alcazaba (fortress) and the Cerro de San Cristóbal
hilltop, and unequalled vantage point from which to see the
town. The Alcazaba, built in the 10th century, consists of
three fortified enclosures – two Arabic ones below and
the Christian one above - surrounded by battlement walls.
It retains interesting halls and passages open to the outside.
Its high ochre-coloured walls turn to red in the early evening.
The Cathedral is a unique example of its kind. This 16th
century fortress-cathedral displays a Gothic structure with
Renaissance facades, and was constructed with the dual purpose
of worship and defence against attacks on the city by Berber
pirates.
There are numerous squares in Almería, although the
Plaza de la Constitución is without doubt the prettiest,
with its wide, arched porticos and the Casa Consistorial (town
hall), which presides over all. The Puerta de Purchena area
is the nerve centre of the town, with many small plazas where
local handicraft products can be bought.
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